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04 September 2008 @ 09:21 am
How's it going.

I'm just letting you know that we have a new blog for our travels:

http://edandmel_travel.livejournal.com


This week we are going to Vietnam, Cambodia, maybe Korea. So pop on over there and add us to your flist or favorites, posts start this weekend :D

xoxoxo
melissa and ed
 
 
09 October 2007 @ 11:36 pm
Hi!  Working on getting settled back into "real life" (http://www.melissasuestanley.blogspot.com), but we're still looking through all our pictures and sorting them out.  Soon comes the big Printing Day, in which our local photo developer will become a happy, busy man.  I'm hoping that's done by this weekend so I can start blowing up some of the good shots and hanging them around the house. 

In the meantime, here's what I was looking at tonight:


somewhere in nara


a pretty straight-forward sign in Gion


I ♥ Ueno!!


finding our way around

drunken toilet-searching in gion

kyoto train station toilet-finding, with important information

imperial palace, kyoto

Ueno elephant signs

for some reason i thought these pictures were strange.  maybe it's the polka dots

hmm.... gion


walk everywhere.

we drank so much beer and ate so much yakitori that we both looked like this guy at the end of the trip.

all about the shinkansen

mitaka, we saw this walking through a little neighborhood.
 
 
30 September 2007 @ 09:44 pm

gion

fox shrine

bad fortunes

nutty

cakey

bamboo forest

the shrine in harajuku

these guys again

castle gate

harajuku

hase

miyajima maples

hiroshima

harajuku

niijo

asakusa

harajuku

fish market
 
 
30 September 2007 @ 12:51 pm

arishiyama (by the monkey park)

mitaka

miyajima

kamakura

fish market

ryoanjii

nara

ueno
 
 
28 September 2007 @ 11:09 pm
Ok so the day we woke up in Miyajima...

The sun was out and our room was very pretty!  The ryoken is in the middle of the woods and surrounded by maples
I liked the mats here

even the bathroom had a good view

after breakfeast we went outside and started walking down the hill through the woods to town, and we saw a lot of deer on the paths

the maple trees here are amazing

once in town we headed right for the shrine and the beach, since the tide was out and the sun was making everything that was painted red look amazing (the whole shrine (not pictured) is also painted red)

yay!

And all around the shrine and the town there are little deer

and they're super cute!

Ed's arm didnt hurt really but it was all swollen from falling the night before (he's ok now)

after walking around town we checked out of the ryoken and said goodbye to grandmother, and then we bought tickets for the cable cars that go up Mt Misen

cable cars are fun!

(but maybe sometimes scary)

we had heard that there were monkeys at the cable car station at the top, but the monkeys weren't around that day

but we knew that they were up there somewhere because their little footprints were in the concrete, so we decided to take the footpath through the woods to see if we could see some out there

And we eventually just wound up climbing the mountain

it took us a little while but we finally got to the top

where the view was great!  ^look at the little tiny torii gate! ;p

on the way back down we stopped at this place i wanted to see - it's the Reika-do Eternal Flame where the fire has (supposedly) been burning steadily for some 1200-some years.  It was pretty smoky inside.

And then we were back in town and it was time for lunch!

outside the restaurant that we ate at they served fresh oysters served by this guy, but we didn't get any because we had already had a lot of good seafood the night before and they were kind of expensive.  looked tasty though.

then we wandered around town a little more

and then back on the ferry - goodbye Miyajima!  If you're going to Japan, go to Miyajima!  It was so amazing.  The town is so quiet and hilly and quaint and the food is fantastic and it's very pretty and the mountains and the water and everything.  Ok.  We took the ferry to the train and the train to the shinkansen

Ed waiting for the shinkansen
and we took the shinkansen to Kyoto, where we checked into K's House and then ate here:

Which is that great yakitori place we kept eating at.  Yummy. 

Ok, well, that's the missing pages from our travels.  I'll post some more filler pictures this weekend - so keep checking if you are interested. 
xoxox!!
 
 
27 September 2007 @ 11:09 pm
Hi all!  I am back home and as mentioned before I can now show you some pictures from our days in Hiroshima and Miyajima.  Here we go:


We got up early this day and hopped the shinkansen to hiroshima, which means....

Bento boxes bought at the train station!  Very yummy.

The views from the shinkansen were fast but interesting

Then we were in Hiroshima where it was quiet and hot and humid and somber and completely different from Tokyo

But it's definitely something everybody who can see should see

Then we hopped on a train to Miyajima.  As mentioned before, Ed fell down on the way to the ferry.  This is Ed's "I fell down the stairs and it's raining" face

But then we saw the island and felt better

A van came to pick us up

And we got the ryoken and had the best green tea we had the whole trip

And then we sat down to dinner, which was a little worrysome at first

because we weren't sure if this was going to be the only course or not...

But there were many more courses and they were all delicious

especially the hiroshima cream grapes

After dinner grandmother showed us how to properly tie our robes, and then we were off to bed!

Ok, I'm off to bed now - so our day in miyajima will be posted tomorrow!

xoxoxoxo
 
 
25 September 2007 @ 11:27 pm
 Hello!  
This was our last full day so we were kinda playing a little catch-up and filling in things that we had not gotten to yet.  It was actually nice and relaxing because we realized around 5pm that we had pretty much seen what we came to see and done what we came to do, and that's an awesome feeling at the end of a vacation.

This morning we headed to asakusa through the kitchenware district to get souveniers and gifts.  I tried to find a teapot that I liked in the kitchenware part of town but couldn't really find anything.  But really, like I need another teapot.  So anyway then we were back at the shrine where we got a bunch of stuff

Gift shopping is fun in Japan

After that we headed back to Shinjuku where at long last I found myself in a Japanese craft store.  If you don't know, I am big into Japanese crochet (amigurumi) and it's kinda a side buisness and art thing for me (http://www.melissasuestanley.blogspot.com).  So this was pretty huge and fun and interesting.  I bought some stuff:

I got some neat owl fabric, some patches, some buttons, some yarn, a very awesome embroidery book, and most importantly:

Japanese amigurumi eyeballs.  These are awesome.  Ok, end craft geekery.
After buying craft stuff we were very hungry and we wanted some 'street food' so we got 4 of these:

Pancakes filled with cheese.  And boy do they sit like a rock.  Very filling and tasty though, we liked them.
After that we headed back to Ueno because we wanted to go to the zoo again.  Unfortunately, because of the public holiday, both the zoo and the art museum were closed. Boo.  So we went back to the hotel where Ed got his first Suntory Boss coffee drink (also on our list of things to do)

And then we wandered around the streets of Ueno which was actually kind of nice and we like going through the quiet residential districts and peeking into alleys and stuff, so it was a good time.  We also looked at the shrine closest to our hotel and this is what the sign says:

So we're going to go back tomorrow when it's open and have a look around before we take off.
Eventually we made our way back (again) to the toy store down the street one last time

I mean, really.  7 floors of this stuff.  All I bought today was Ghibli chopsticks.  I was very good.  Plus they were completely out of Cromartie stuff. ;p

And then - Chanko Nabe!!!!!  Most delicous ever.  They bring you a little gas grill and a pot of raw meat, water, and vegetables, and you cook your food right there.  We had chicken, leeks, tofu, and some other stuff.  You grind sesame into your bowl and then fill it from the pot when it's done cooking

The extra fatty chicken makes it extra tasty.  This is so delicious.  Mmmm.

Even after our 2 beers and pot o' sumo food we still felt a little hungry so we headed down a few blocks to the yakitori place 

My favorite is the chicken with fat and leeks.  We ate a few of those and then I made Ed stop at the *other* yakitori place down closer to the hotel and we got a few more

This place isn't right on the street, you have to knock on the little window.  But just as tasty.
Then we popped into the local grocery store so we could buy:

Fresh grapes and cold beer 

Back in the room we dug out and went through everything we bought in the last 2 weeks.  We're pretty happy with our little stash (gifts for people back home not pictured, hehehe)

We think maybe we bought a little too much tanuki, but we love them all. 

Yummy grapes

And now we are on the computers talking to you!  
We are all packed up and ready to go.  Tomorrow we're still going to get a bit done before we fly out, fish market breakfeast, the zoo, and maybe a little more shopping :)
Once we leave the internet will be a little spotty as the laptop is fryed out right now, but once we get something up and running we'll be updating with filler pictures, some more details / reviews, and other little tidbits for those interested.  Otherwise - see you when we get home!!
xoxoxoxox
ed and mel from japan

 
 
25 September 2007 @ 12:20 am
 This morning we got up and headed out on the JR line to Kamakura, which in total from Ueno takes maybe about an hour and a half to get there.  Once there we hopped on a local bus to the big buddah

Which was a lot nicer than our other bus experience, and we got there pretty quickly.

It's the second largest bronze buddah in japan, but this one is outside, so that's pretty neat.  I'd say even though this one is smaller, it's just as neat as the big one in Nara because of the outdoor factor.  PLUS, for 20 yen (less than 20 cents) you can go inside of it.

It looks much better from the outside.  But I guess once you go in you can say "hey i went inside the big buddah in kamakura.  hm.   Anyway it's a very elegant statue and i like it.

After that we wandered around town and had lunch

One of the reasons we keep eating this stuff is because it's interesting that each individual shop has its own type of gyoza and their own distinct broth.  So it tastes different everywhere you go depending on what they're cooking with at each place.  Not to mention it tastes like real food, unlike the 10 cent packets we get back in chicago.

After lunch we went to see the Hase Kannon and the gardens around it were very nice.  You cant take pictures of the statue but I bought a postcard of it, it's big and pretty and gold.  They also have a nice amida buddah here, and a cave temple/shrine (?)

After that it was back on the train to Tokyo, where we stopped through Akihabara to get another memory card (the laptop is full (and fizzled), the gig usb drive we brought with is full, and now we have 2 full 2-gig cards.  And I'm working on the 3rd 2-gig card.  Eek.  

In Akihabara we went into a few toy stores to try to find Full Metal Panic and Cromartie stuff, but nobody had anything (I guess we like strange anime) so we decided to have a cup of coffee there and then make a quick stop on the way back in Ueno at the toy store to get more Cromartie High School junk and some very neat Ghibli toys (they have way more merch for Ghibli than the actual Ghibli museum...).  
Then we hopped back on the train back to Shinjuku for more of the same delicious sushi we had last night

This is the name of the place.  It is very tasty.  After dinner we wandered around Shinjuku a little while

Which is fun because of all the lights and everything.  And then we stopped in this bar:

which i didn't really care for because it reminded me too much of Jimmy's Grill in Naperville.  Bleh.  And nobody there was really talkative so we left and headed back to Ueno, where be got some snacks at the corner store, and now we're here and I'm going to bed!  
Tomorrow is our last full day and we've got a lot planned!
xoxo
 
 
23 September 2007 @ 11:20 pm
 and we are back in Tokyo!
Here's what has been going on:

After my last post we headed out for more yakitori, and then we were off to Gion for another night of  street-wandering and beers.  

When we came out of the German pub the night before we spotted a sign for a bar that we decided we had to come back to:

But finding your way back to a specific place in Gion, as tourists, is pretty difficult.  After much re-tracing of steps and wrong alleys walked down, and about an hour and a half, we found ourselves at the Rat and Boar, where there was the bartender and two locals drinking.  We wern't sure if we would be comfortable there, but after about 5 minutes we were laughing and talking with the 3 guys - we really had the best time.  We talked and laughed and bought eachother drinks for maybe 3 hours until we were all giggling - it's amazing how easy it is to work past any language barrier here - "mind and body speak" as one of the guys said that night.  Our two friends left and then it was just us with the bartender for a while

I took his picture so that I can send him a little painting of it.  He had art and postcards on the walls from all over - people stop by and drink and then send him stuff when they get home.
Then, it was back into the streets.

We really like Gion.  The walk home after that night was a little rough, but we had some help finding our way from some other travellers we met:

And we slept in a little the next morning.  Which was OK, because we were off to our next hotel, which was in fact a ryoken, which was actually about 2 blocks away from K's House - so we didn't even have to drag our luggage that far.  We checked in and then went for coffee and toast down the street.  The toast here is huge and fluffy and full of butter and like a whole meal.

This coffee shop on the corner doesn't look like much, but when you go in the tables overlook a gigantic basement cement cistern-thing that's loaded with giant koy.  Woa.

After coffee we went to nijo castle, which was gorgeous and very neat - the nightengale floors are awesome and I really liked the paintings inside.  No pictures are allowed inside, so I bought postcards of some of the paintings.
I am wearing long sleeves in this picture because Kyoto is so freaking hot and sunny that I started getting a wierd sun/heat rash thing.  It's fine now, I've been staying out of the sun and it's gone away.  Bleh.
Anyway, the walk from Nijo castle to the Imperial Palace just happens to go past this place:

-we're dorks,remember?-
This place was very interesting.  Lots of displays of old old old manga, the gigantic wall of manga, and demonstrations... and there was a pretty neat gift shop that had this little gem:

Yep, I am now the proud owner of a small reproduction of the Scroll of the Frollicking Animals.  Hooray!!!
OK, then we walked to the Imperial Palace, and didn't see much but it was a nice walk.  We were pretty beat so we headed back to our Ryoken where we were shown into our room, had some nice green tea on the balcony that overlooked the garden, and then had our first onsen-style bath, which was nice after the walking walking walking.  Then up to the room to rest before dinner

Dinner was very tasty.  We ate everything.  That Ed ate everything amazes me still - when we met he wouldn't eat sushi and now he eats anything Kasekai that's put in front of him, even stuff I think twice about.

The seafood again was great.  Instead of sea breem we had mackerel, and shrimps, and tons of other stuff, it was a 2 hour meal with many many courses.  This is the rice and soup course. 
Kasekai makes us sleepy, so we crashed right after dinner on our futons.  Then it was up at 7 for breakfeast:

Which was very tasty but I couldn't eat the sesame tofu stuff (grey, above).  Then we got a ride to the Shinkansen from the inn-keeper's husband (very nice!) and we were off to Tokyo, the good old Oak Hotel, and Harajuku!

It was good to go back and see some of the stuff we missed the first time, like the Rockabilly guys

And Takeshita Street - where I am happy to say that one of our big goals for Tokyo was met - 

Take Funny Pictures in a Harajuku Photobooth!!!

They're little tiny stickers.  Score.

After that it was off to Shinjuku

Where we had some beers on the street

...and we *finally* sat down to a nice good sushi dinner.  It was great.  We're going back to this place tomorrow night.  Then after dinner we hopped back on the train to Ueno, where we finished the evening here:

I could do an entire blog post about this store.  If you are into any sort of toys, whether obscure or popular or anything, you must stop here.  It is right across the street from Ueno Station, and it is no less than SEVEN FLOORS of plasticy, plushy, cutesy, obscure goodness. 

Any toy you ever want, they have it.  Old vintage stuff, new Juxtapose stuff, and everything in the middle.  And, bubble vending machines on every floor.  
But in the end this was all that mattered:

We were starting to think that we'd never find anything Cromartie-related, and then there it was, this little box.  Mission Accomplished!  We have Cromartie High School junk!! WOOOOOOO!!!!

We bought four!  Whatever could they be?

The Pohs, a Mechazawa, and Freddie and his horse!!!
OK, sorry, we're geeks, but we're happy geeks.

Off to bed!  More tomorrow
xoxoxo
 
 
21 September 2007 @ 05:36 pm

First things first: I am doing laundry right now.  Thank goodness.  Whew.  The hostel charges $3.00 a load, and that`s all we needed was the one.  :)  It:s very hot and sunny and hot here.  We are both a little crispy.

OK!  Today we went to the flea market!  It was amazing.  I loved all of it!  We kept trying to leave but I kept seeing things I liked.  Nothing too big though, we only have a backpack`s worth of space to fill of stuff, so we`re keeping it small.  And cheap.  Good deals on the things we like.  I bought a few more Tanuki statues, a pincushion, and some gifts.  We didn:t pay more than $3.00 for a single item.  There were a few things that were pricey but nothing we were really interested in.  At some point I`m dragging ed to another woodblock print gallery/shop though... hehehe

The flea market is in a temple which makes it even more appealing. It's about a 15 minute walk from the Kyoto train station and it's every 21st of every month.  Frommer's guide had it correct - we had the date wrong because we are on vacation and we have no idea what day of the week or date it is.  

Lots to see, different vendors, some wierd food and some food that looked really tasty too.

Note the octopus in the background. 

Tanuki!
After the flea market we stashed our goodies in the train station lockers and went off to Nara.

First we had lunch here - and it was sooooooo delicious.  This place is right on the main drag to the temples after the train station.  Very recommended.  Very small.  Very tasty.  

Once you get to Nara you have to feed the deer

Because it's fun and they like it.  i got headbutted by a few big bucks several times, which explains why they trim the racks on the big guys.  

Then we just sat around with the deer for a while.  They aren't really in a park or anything, just all over the middle of the town

Then around the pond to the temples and things

This place is one of my favorites that we've been to.  It's Todaiji Temple

Where there is a giant buddah

No really, it's big

Huuuuuge!!!!
After that it was back into the streets for green tea ice cream, deer trinkets, and walking walking walking.  We're back at the hostel now having a beer and doing laundry which is now almost done, and then we're back walking walking to our favorite yakitori place for one more night of delicious yummies, (tomorrow is kaiseki again) and then walking walking to Gion for beers and grapes and things.  

This is what we look like on any given day.  We walk everywhere, unless we really have to take a train.  So we are going through these little neighborhoods and seeing a lot of neat stuff.  And that blue towel?  That's your best friend in japan in the heat.  We have several that are in rotation here - basically washcloths.  Everyone has one and they're wonderful for wiping brows and faces when you get all sweaty.

I am very happy and having fun in the temple gardens

And we are having a lot of giggles and a lot of fun.  
OK, time to check the dryer and get some yakitori.
oxxxoxox

 
 
21 September 2007 @ 06:54 am
It's about a 45-minute walk (stroll really) from the hostel to Gion, so we went last night and we had a blast.  We ate club sammiches (needed a noodle break, we had soba for lunch) and coffee and from our table on the corner we watched many a geisha go running by.

(we ate at a place called Noen, which seems to be the japanese version of Omega)
Then we walked around the streets a bit.

Some of the streets are quiet and are full of the feeling that you are someplace very expensive and reserved, while others are blaring pachinko and shopping and Escorts are flying by with cell phones and 6" heels, either alone or in flocks of 3-4, or with a few clients.  After we left the restaurant we saw maybe 10 geisha, but probably 100 'escorts'.  Also a lot of clubs, some brothels, and a german beer house where we stopped for some refreshment.  On the way back we bought some big old grapes ($10 for a single small bunch!) and ate them on the way home.  It was fun and we're going back tonight.
OK, it's 7am and we're off to try that flea market thing again.
xoxo!
 
 
20 September 2007 @ 05:30 pm
This morning we got up to go to the flea market, only to get there and find that it's tomorrow!  Bah!  So, this is not the first thing that Frommer's guide has been wrong about.  Oh well, it was a good morning walk.  Then it was back to the train station where we caught a very crowded and noisy and bumpy bus to Kinkakuji temple, or The Golden Pavillion as it's called. 

It's very pretty (of course, it's covered in real gold!) and the surrounding gardens are also very nice.  The pavillion is a lot smaller than we thought, but that didn't take anything away from it - it's gorgeous in the sunlight.

From there it was a 20 minute walk down the street to Ryoanji, which I was very excited to see.  It's amazing!  I could have sat there for hours - but it was a little crowded and we had other things to see.
Like the surrounding gardens!  I took lots of pictures but I thought this might be interesting right now for you:

My personal favorite thing right now in Kyoto is these gardens.  They are full of the greenest, most beautiful moss.  The landscaping is amazingly clean - armies of little old ladies spend hours picking every little stray twig and leaf out of the moss.  The boulders and trees are arranged in the moss perfectly.  I feel very relaxed and happy in these places.
Moving on, we didn't like the bus so much, so we decided to walk to the nearest JR station.  That was a very interesting walk through some small neighborhoods and through the Myoshinji Temple. 

The neighborhoods were interesting - that's something we both like doing is when we can, avoid the public transportation and walk around the streets.  Not always possible with the distances between sights, but awesome when we can do it.
We got to the JR station and took the train back to Kyoto Station, where we hopped on the Nara line to Inari to see the fox shrine.

This place is amazing.  Thousands and thousands of torii gates in lots of rows.  I wish we had more time to spend here as there looks like there is a lot of walking through the gates around the grounds that you can do.  We went through about half and then started making our way back to the hostel. 
We also did some good shopping today and picked up some cute trinkets, a present for Tiny, a wonderful little woodblock print, and of course we bought one of these Tanukis:

You see these guys all over town and they always make us laugh. 

Anyway, we are off to Gion tonight for more walking (ug, we are getting beat again) and dinner.  We are now just having a little break at the hostel as we did another marathon day of walking.  Tomorrow we'll try for the Flea Market (early early!) and then we are off to Nara for a little day-trip.

xoxo!
 
 
19 September 2007 @ 08:37 pm

this post brought to you by delicious, hot, and slightly moving yakitori and beers!!

our hotel room at K`s House.  No, there is nothing else in this room.  There:s a little desk with a TV next to me where I:m standing to take this picture, and that:s it.  I:m standing in the doorway.  It:s perfect and cheap and the shared bathrooms are actually very nice and private, no problems here.  That air conditioner really kicks too.  All in all this is a very great place and definitly recommended.  If you book early enough you can get a suite that has its own bathroom but you really dont need it.  The only wierd thing is that the doors are metal locker doors.  strange, but what do you want for $30 a person per night.  

We:ve found a little yakitori restaurant by the train station and we love it.   So delicious.  Our meal tonight was a little pricey ($50), but after so much noodles it was definitly worth it.  The scallops wrapped in bacon were the best.  The eggplant was pretty tasty too.  Everything was good.  

Here is a view of the zen garden we saw today.  Its really hard to capture how gorgeous this was on a camera because you really need to see the mountains in the background, the whole pond, the detail in the boulders, the moss, the smell, the huge pavillion behind us... it was beautiful.

The bamboo forest!  Again, so pretty and peaceful.  

Sorry, can:t get this picture to rotate in Flickr, but I thought it was adorable.  Just turn your head a little ;p
OK.  We bought some Kirin out of the vending machine in the hostel (cheaper than on the street) and we:re going towatch wierd japanese game shows and plan out the next few days here in Kyoto.  
Tomorrow?  Three words:  

Japanese 
Flea
Market

xoxox!

 
 
19 September 2007 @ 05:43 pm
 Guess what we did today!!!!

that`s right!!!

Monkey Park!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We saw baby monkeys, monkey fights, we got chased around by a big scary monkey, and spent about 4 hours just wandering around the top of the hill.  It was another climb for us - but the mountain hiking yesterday kinda got us ready for it.  Plus we knew there were monkeys at the top so that was good motivation.

And we got to feed them apples and things - they have wierd little hands and they get really aggressive so you have to go in a little house and feed them through the fence.  As you can probably imagine we have about a million photos of monkeys now, they walk right by you and it`s amazing.

After the monkey park we wandered around the little town that it`s by which was buzzing with japanese tourists and full of ice-cream joints.  We walked through the Tenryu-ji Temple which had the most amazing garden and koy pond.  Flickr is slow here or I would show you a picture :(  

After the temple we walked through this huge bamboo forest for a while.  Again, slow internet here = no pictures yet.  It was very peacefull and beautiful and when the wind blew the trees made the best noises.  We also saw the biggest, wierdest, hariest moth flying by.  

We had delicious tempura soba and green tea ice cream.  We walked around the town some more and bought some little things - some very cute fabric dolls from the chiri-men craft museum and some little ceramic frogs (if there is frog stuff to be bought, we will find it).  

Now we are back at the hostel - it is about 6pm and quiet, everyone is out.  We`re going out too - yakitori for dinner tonight and of course tasty japanese beer.  I think we are both loosing a lot of weight with all the hiking up and down mountains and through cities and everything, we`ve never walked so much - it`s all we can do to keep our bellies full of noodles and beer and snacks to keep us going.

Another great thing is the vending machines.  Every block has a vending machine that sells drinks of all different sorts, so we are definitly staying hydrated.  We haven`t bought beer out of a street vending machine yet, but I took a picture of one today.

OK off to dinner!!!
xoxo

 
 
19 September 2007 @ 12:02 am


Hi Kids!
Today our laptop took a big crap-o-la, so i don:t have pictures of the last two days.  I mean, I have them, but we won:t be able to show them to you until we get back home.  I did manage to sqeeze this one of Miyajima through before the laptop fizzed out.  
Tomorrow I:ll be able to have pictures, but not so many as I:m on a computer here at K:s House Kyoto and it:s about $1.00 every 15 minutes, and the previous postings I did took about 1 hour to complete as Flickr.com takes a while to upload the photos...
Anyway, the blog will continue just with a little more selection as to which photos get posted.  Rest assured that when we are home we:ll have a bunch of big postings with more details and catch-up.  I may also be able to do so when we get to Tokyo as the Oak Hotel has free internet and is not so busy.  It:s about midnight here and K:s house is hopping with backpackers and travellers and all sorts of people. 

Also, a big hello to all our new LJ friends!  We:re glad you:ve added us.  Going forward we will -not- be using lj-cuts, so keep that in mind.  You may want to just add this blog to your favorites list if you have f-list probs with photos.  

OK.  enough of that.

To sum up what I can:t show you in pictures...

Yesterday morning we hopped the shinkansen to hiroshima - about 4 hours, very fast.  There we walked around but it was so hot it was almost unreal.  the humidity was what really made it killer.  Ugggg.  And, we didn:t really eat enough.  So that wasn:t the most fun ever - nevermind that Hiroshima is a kind of wierd depressing strange city to begin with.  So, then it was back on the train - via streetcar- to Miyajima.  On the train to miyajima it started to pour buckets.  When we pulled into the city across the bay from miyajima it was raining very hard, so we scurred to the ferry port but ed fell down on some slippery wet stairs and now has a trophy bruise to show for it - He:s OK!  Just has a whopper on his arm.  We caught the ferry and were feeling pretty much miserable as we found seats on it, but then the boat started for miyajima island and the closer we got the better things seemed to get - looking forward all we saw was lush green mountains and the bright red torii gate that you could see even in the rain.  The ferry docked and we ran through the rain again into the station, where we were able to arrange a car to come get us to take us to the ryoken we were staying in - thank goodness, it would have been a gross hike uphill in the rain with the luggage.  The van came and after a crazy ride through one-lane streets in the rain we were at the ryoken, which we couldn:t really see because of the dark and rain.  As we got out of the van we saw a few rain-drenched deer sitting by trees next to the place, which made us feel better.  We got in and were greeted by Grandmother, who led us through the proper actions of taking off our shoes, going to our room, having some fabulous frothy green tea, taking a nice long shower, and dressing in traditional robes (the name escapes me at the moment).  Then we shuffled in our robes and slippers to the dining room (after resting in our big room for about an hour watching the koy fish in the pond by our big windows) where we were served a huge fresh wonderful meal of local seafood (fresh from the nearby ocean that day) and green-tea soba and rice and all sorts of other things, followed by desert of cream grapes - we now know why the grapes in the train stations cost $60 for a bunch - OMG they were amazing and we only had 4 grapes each.  After dinner and beer we were exhausted what  with the heat and running around all day (and the Tokyo running around from the days before) that we just had green tea in the room and crashed out on very soft and comfortable futons.  
The next morning Grandmother woke us up for another amazing meal, and then we were off to explore the island.  We saw maybe 100 little deer, bought some cute trinkets, and of course wandered around the main shrine and torii gate.  (picture above).  We stashed the luggage in a locker by the ferry port then and took a cable car to the top of the highest peak on the island - well, almost to the top.  We had to walk the last bits to the top and with the heat, humidity, altitude, and distance we went through it was quite a hike!!  however after our restful experience at the ryoken it wasn:t really that bad at all.  We got to the top and the view was great.  No monkeys though, they were off in the forest out of the heat.  So we went back down, petted some more deer, and then took the ferry to the train to the shinkansen to the other shinkansen, and now we are in kyoto.  
We havent seen much of kyoto, nothing that you would think looks like kyoto, just the city (pachinko and lights) and the hostel is in a residential area.  Our room here is smaller than the Oak Hotel room, but the common areas are nice and its very comfortable and the TV is hillarious.  We had a good dinner of ramen and yakitori in a little place down the street, and got some beers to go for the room, so we are good to go.  
Tomorrow I think we will either try for the Monkey Park, or we will be going to the temple/shrine area - depends on what time we get going and how we find our way around.  We are doing very well getting on trains and subways and everything, so that:s good.  People are very helpful even if they dont: understand english.  I wish I could show you how beautiful Miyajima is - anyone planning to go to Japan should add this to their trip, and stay on the island overnight.  It:s gorgeous.  
Anyway, beer and bed for me, goodnight!

 
 
16 September 2007 @ 07:34 am
This morning we took some dumplings and headed out to mitaka to see the ghibli museum.  studio ghibli is the art and animation museum of favorite japanese cartoons/movies and the artist/director Hayao Miyazaki. 

we had to take the JR line instead of the subway - whee!

once in Mitaka we walked to the museum - we went past a very pretty animal preserve with statues in it

Mitaka!

here we are.  you can't take photos inside the museum so we only got these two shots really.  this one above^

and then on the roof  ^

the museum is very pretty and strange though

i bought a book though, so i can show you some neat things like this enourmous plush cat-bus that kids can actually sit inside of and play around.

and of course there was lots of art and sketches and neat animation stuff to look at

but this thing was my favorite.  it's a huge model with figures from Totoro, and it spins and they hit it with a strobe light and it becomes animated and all sorts of neat things happen, like the girls jump rope and totoro jumps around and the little white totoros run and bop and the catbus runs through the air, and it looks perfect when it's going!  it's very neat.  it's interesting to see animation done with 3-d characters instead of drawings.

and then of course was the gift shop!  i didn't buy nearly as much as we thought i would.  we got 2 beers that were tasty and came in souvenier bottles, and then i got a bunch of little stuff.  not bad.

and then lunch in mitaka - ramen and gyoza!  mmmmmmmmmmm it was so tasty. 

after lunch we got back on the train and met sam and ade at the Ueno station, and then we 4 went to Harajuku!! 

oh, harajuku...

Oh! before I forget.  Ravens!  Everywhere!  They are as big as ducks.  they make the wierdest sounds.  We like them.

next to where the Silly Kids of harajuku hang out there is a gigantic shinto temple that we went to

The walk down the path is very long - at least a mile or more.   but it's through the woods, through big big big gates, and it's pretty.  once there we rinsed/purified our hands and mouths again

the temple is pretty

and inside there were 2 weddings going on

it would have been wierd i guess if a bunch of japanese people showed up at my wedding and took pictures...
there were tons of westerners snapping photos of this bride.

also in the temple you can buy a Votive Board and write wishes/prayers on it, and then hang it by this tree, and the monks then offer up your prayers later.

and then more harajuku

there were lots of tourists there though, and a lot of fashion magazine people and photographers

but there was also this guy, so it's OK

after that we said goodbye to sam and ade, and it was kinda sad!  we really had a lot of fun with them and hopefully we'll see them next year if we travel or if they travel.  So, then we went to Shibuya Crossing to see the people

it was super crowded - and in the middle of it there was this ceremony parade thing going through that we followed for a while

this is us in the crossing.  it's hard to photograph just how many people are here.  it's a lot.  ed's saying "hey don't take pictures there's too many people here!" :P

anyway, we are back in the room now and we had dumplings for dinner with beers

and we are watching japanese TV which is very wierd. 

OK, off to bed.  Tomorrow we get up very early to catch the Shinkasen to hiroshima.  No pictures or blog posting online though because our next hotel doesn't have internet.  But, we are only there 1 night and then we will be in Kyoto where we'll be back online and I'll do a little catch-up.  Hopefully our pace will slow down a little once we get out of the city.  We're beat and our feet hurt!  We're having the best time ever, but our feet feel like mashed potatoes. 

goodnight!
xoxoxo
 
 
15 September 2007 @ 09:29 am
it was hot and humid today!  we went all over again with sam and ade.

 
first (well, after breakfeast) was asakusa temple.  this was big on my to-do list and it was great!


first we 'bathed' in smoke


and then washed our hands and rinsed our mouths out


and then up into the temple to get our fortunes


bad fortunes get tied to this thing so you dont take them with you


after a couple attempts we both got good fortunes


on the way back to Ueno we saw an XB, or bB as they are called here

and i really want these hubcaps for my xB!

and we also saw more fugu


then to the Ueno Zoo, through the park, both were very nice.  and we saw Ling Ling which was neat, and they had red pandas also


and then - SUMO!!!


SUMO!

SUMO!

BEER AND YAKITORI!!!

SUMO!!
...and i love my new camera.  the zoom is great

the grand champion

it was nice to sit an watch the bouts for a few hours out of the heat and drink beers and relax



after the match it was dark, so we went over to roppongi 

we saw tokyo tower for the first time


and then up to the observation deck of roppongi hills (very classy establishment) where you get a 360 of tokyo.

they also had a spectacular aquarium display set up on that floor, which was gorgeous.  

we are very tired

but we had a fun day!
 
 
 
14 September 2007 @ 08:36 am
 
today we got up at about 6ish and came downstairs and met sam and ade who are from spain, and found that we were all going to the fish market, so we all 4 went together.  we got there and it was chaos, but we found a little noodle shack and ate a very delicious breakfeast.

hi, it's 7:30 am, i'm jet-lagged and eating a huge bowl of ramen for breakfeast.  yay!


and then, fishes!! thousands of wierd strange fishes.


fugu!!! dont eat it or you will die.  hahahha


yummy

they cut the fish with a bandsaw


outside the fishmarket

after the fish market we hopped the subway to ginza and walked around but not much was open.  so we had a little coffee and then hopped the subway again to the electronics district

ed and sam on the subway


we went into a scary-huge electronics store and i putzed about with some very neat tablets and computers.  interesting, but i think i'll stick with my pencils and brushes and paper ;p


yay electronics!


sam and adea were camera shopping, so we split up so we could put some serious work into finding obscure anime toys.  

our pocket change has pretty much become dedicated to these little toy vending things.  


they are super cheap and sell stuff we can't resist, like this little seal with a frog on his head.   why?  we have no idea.  


back on the street there was a little of this


and a little of this.


we are going to studio ghibli in a couple of days, and i am sooooo excited.  look at that totoro!!!! eee!


we popped back on the subway to ginza so our friends could buy the camera they wanted at the sony buliding, and ed and i played with the new computers and gadgets there.


yep.


then we decided that we needed lunch and beer, so back on the subway to Ueno (ginza is way to expensive to eat in - it's very much Michigan Ave.)

conveyer belt sushi is OK - but we all learned a valuable lesson: if it looks gross, and tastes gross, just spit it out.  uuuuug.  mushy tuna roll = :(

Ueno has a cute shopping district that we then walked around 


walking back to the hotel


we had a shower and a little rest and then off to dinner.  this yakitori was a delicious snack.


we found a great little tempura place for dinner.  i would have enjoyed this more if I had not been focusing so much on Not Barfing Up Mushy Tuna Roll :(  but everything here was delicious


and then back to the hotel - sam and ade just got in yesterday too, and with all the walking the four of us did + jet lag, we hung around the common room downstairs and drank rum & cokes and talked - we also met some of the other guests too and we all talked and laughed a while.  

we walked allll over, and looked and talked and laughed more than took photos - the city is very comfortable and everyone is so unbelievably friendly!  a lot of the places in the city remind me of chicago, which is strange.  it's very clean and it was not so crowded today.  right now though i'm going to go watch strange japanese TV and sleep - tomorrow is a long day!

xooxox
 
 
13 September 2007 @ 07:54 am



our hotel room is tiny


we're in Ueno!


we ate at a little ramen restaurant


which was better than the food on the plane 

aaaaand now sleep.  very very very sleepy, can't do much typing. i hope we get up early enough for the fish market.  sushi breakfeast!


♥

 
 
 
 

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